Setting Sail Around the UK: A Voyage Aboard Aeolus

Beachy Head

Leg I: Hamble to Woolverstone

In April 2023, Neil Harris and John Lowe set sail on the first leg of their long-awaited UK circumnavigation aboard Aeolus, their trusty 36-foot Hallberg-Rassy. Having owned the yacht since 2022, they were eager to embark on their epic journey. After a brief delay due to strong westerly winds, they finally left Hamble Point Yacht Charters on April 13, setting off in brisk conditions with gusts reaching F6.

By the evening, they had made good progress, reaching Eastbourne Marina by 7 p.m. Here, they were joined by their college friend, Nige, for a few days of sailing. On Day 2, they passed the iconic White Cliffs of Dover and headed for Ramsgate, navigating through busy Channel waters teeming with Border Force vessels. On Day 3, they opted not to head up the Thames, instead continuing along the coast to Chatham Marina on the Medway.

The next few days took them through Southend and Walton on the Naze, eventually making their way up the Orwell River to Woolverstone Marina, where they completed their first leg. Smooth sailing, good winds, and steady progress made for an exciting start to what promises to be a memorable adventure.

Leg II: Woolverstone to Lowestoft

Nearly two months later, on June 10, 2023, Neil, John, and their crew, including Neil’s business partner Andy and friend Vince, set out on the second leg of their journey. This short leg was about positioning for the upcoming challenges, including the tricky crossing of the Wash.

They sailed down the River Orwell, hoisting the spinnaker for the first time—a fun milestone. After spending the night at Levington Marina and enjoying the Champions League final at a local pub, they sailed toward Lowestoft. Unfortunately, the wind dropped, forcing them to motor the final stretch into the Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club Marina. It was a short but necessary leg, setting them up for the more challenging passages ahead.

Leg III: Lowestoft to Peterhead

On June 16, 2023, after a hearty breakfast at the Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club, Neil, John, and their crew embarked on a week-long sail up the East Coast toward Scotland. Their goal was to sail 101 miles north to round Norfolk and cross the Wash, heading towards Grimsby.

The weather was warm, but light winds made for a slow start. They spent most of the day motor-sailing the longer passage to Grimsby due to Aeolus’s deep draft. After a tiring but rewarding passage, they anchored inside Spurn Head at 1:30 a.m. the following day. Over the next few days, they passed Flamborough Head, Scarborough, Whitby, and Hartlepool, where they were joined by a new crew member, "Sarj."

The crew continued north, making stops in Amble and Holy Island before finally crossing into Scottish waters on June 21. They reached Arbroath that evening and celebrated with a meal of Arbroath smokies. By June 22, they arrived in Peterhead, marking the end of this memorable leg.

Leg IV: Peterhead to the Orkneys

Leg 4 - Spinnaker trim

After a brief return to Peterhead, Neil, John, and Vince set sail on July 27, 2023, for the Orkneys. They navigated through foggy conditions and, by late evening, arrived in Wick Marina. On July 29, they left for the Orkneys, passing South Ronaldsay and reaching Kirkwall Marina in the early afternoon.

They spent the next few days exploring the Orkneys, enjoying the peace and tranquility of the islands. Highlights included sailing past the Old Man of Hoy and exploring Scapa Flow. They also had a rare sighting of a cruise ship docked in Kirkwall plus other reminders of the Orkneys' rich naval history. On July 31, Vince took a dip in the chilly Orkney waters, while Neil and John opted to stay dry.

By August 1, they were moored at Stromness Marina, ready for their next leg.

Leg V: Stromness to Stornoway

On August 20, 2024, Neil and John left Stromness Marina, with the dramatic landscape of Scapa Flow unfolding behind them. They rounded Cape Wrath that evening, an exciting milestone in their adventure. After rounding the tip of the North West Scottish mainland, they arrived at Kinlochbervie late at night and rested before continuing their journey across the Minch on August 21.

The 50-mile Minch crossing to Stornoway was a "character-building" journey. Winds picked up to F5-F6, forcing them to reef the sails and battle rough seas. Despite the tough conditions, Aeolus performed admirably. They arrived in Stornoway by 10:30 p.m., greeted by a curious Border Force vessel after passing the town quay.

With Stornoway as their base for the next eight months, the duo reflected on the challenging but rewarding passage. They had crossed a major milestone in their circumnavigation, with the challenges of crossing The Northern Coast of Scotland firmly in their rearview mirror.

Exploring the Outer Hebrides

After settling in Stornoway, Neil and John set out to explore the wild beauty of the Outer Hebrides. On October 15, 2023, they embarked on a memorable day’s sail down the east coast of Lewis, passing the Shiant Isles and making their way towards Tarbert. They enjoyed a peaceful night at Scalpay before continuing their exploration of the islands.

With a gentle F3 wind on October 16, they sailed towards Skye and then back to Tarbert, enjoying the sights and sounds of the Scottish coastline. Their return sail to Stornoway on October 17 was marked by a calm F2 breeze, offering gentle conditions for the journey.

These few days of sailing were a perfect introduction to the Outer Hebrides, and Neil and John were excited for the adventures that lay ahead in the remote, breathtaking waters of Scotland. 

Stay tuned for more updates as they continue their UK circumnavigation!

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